However, Telugus are not the only non-Bangla community in Dhaka. There are many more. Together, they not only help Dhaka wear its cosmopolitan look, but also dispel the myth that all the non-Muslim communities in Bangladesh have been either prosecuted or expelled. Seetha Shankari is an elderly member from the 50,000-strong Shankari community from Karnataka. These extraordinary jewellers of Dhaka came with the entourage of Ballal Sen in the late 17th century. The latter was a Bengal ruler whose ancestors were Kannadiga kings. Since centuries, families like those of Seetha have worked as jewellers. “Bengalis were not accustomed to conch shell jewelleries. We introduced these to youngsters here and now it is a rage,” smiled Seetha. Unlike Telugus in Dhaka, the Shankaris are mostly well to do middleclass families. It is therefore easier for them to maintain their distinct culture.

Pirated DVDs of Kannada potboilers jostle for space with Bangla and Hindi hits in Shankari Bazaar shops. Hotels in the locality serve tasty Kannada cuisines. Hearing that an Indian journalist has come, a small crowd gathers around Seetha’s shop. Some elders try unsuccessfully to converse with me in Kannada. Seeing me helpless they laugh, and switch to Bangla. Seetha offers to pack some conch-shell jewelry for my wife. I politely decline and bid them adieu.

With the Banarasis in Dhaka, I didn’t face any language barriers. They are fluent in Awadhi lashed Hindi. Most of them live in Mirpur Benarasi Palli. Impressed by their finesse, Nawab Salimullah settled 5,000 sari weavers in the late 19th century. Today, they number around 1,00,000. When you hear the sounds of the handlooms from afar, you know you are approaching the Benarasi neighbourhood.....Continue